An Adriatic Retreat

Charming, Romantic, Optimistic, Antiquated but Trendy, Inviting, and Azure

Croatia, for a lack of better words, is simply divine, and certainly fit for a Roman Emperor who once retired amongst its shores. Having just returned from a 5-night holiday in the beautiful Dalmatian islands, off the mainland coast of Croatia, we are slowly readjusting to the busy city life. After all, we spent 5 full days walking and hiking at a leisurely pace, basking in the sun on the rocky Croatian shores, eating local cuisine (fish, cheese, roasted vegetables, gelato), and enjoying the Croatian atmosphere, a fine mixture of terracotta roof tops, ancient Roman walls, palm trees, humid air, and boats of all kinds. Though we brought along a small guide book for good measure, our minimalist goals for this trip involved plenty of rest, relaxation, and sunshine. With the current exchange rate of British Pounds to Croatian Kunes at 8:1, we managed to squeeze in professional massages on the Island of Hvar, a bit of intense bargain shopping/bartering with the locals, and rented lounge chairs on the rocky beaches. We spent our 5 nights in 3 different cities, commuting via ferry and excursion boats, and found each to have its own unique ambiance....

Split, Croatian Mainland

Home to Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, an international airport, and a well-serviced ferry harbour, Split is a bustling seaside town, often the entry and exit point for those visiting nearby Dalmatian islands (like us). It features several markets within the still-standing palace walls, where locals sell just about everything you can imagine, from produce, to jewelery, to handmade crafts. Bordering the harbour is a long, pedestrian boardwalk, laced with seaside cafes, dozens of white wooden benches for the devoted people-watchers, amateur entertainers, and plenty of shops:

Hvar Town, Island of Hvar

A short one-hour ferry ride from Split is Hvar Town, complete with the steep hills of Lisbon, spiced with the small-town charm of Cinque Terre, and boasting a daily routine possibly like that of Miami Beach - settled and sunny by day, vibrant and wild by night. Hvar Town smells of sea salt, sunscreen, and abundant surrounding lavender farms, and revolves around the bustling center square. Despite a lack of sandy beaches, the rugged and rocky coastline is more than suitable for afternoons of reading in the heat, combined with refreshing dips into the Adriatic. We spent our evenings walking along the water and looking for the local food hubs, one of which had no written menu, serving up two simple options of either the local fish or meat platter, furnished with rustic barrel tables. After dinner, thanks to some advice from our Kiwi friends, Ben and Louise, we found a local spot called the Jazz Bar, where we had a great time with both locals and fellow travelers. The bartender introduced us to locally-made cherry brandy, and without thinking twice, gave Bryan the bar's last Ozujsko Croatian beer pint glass as a souvenir for his collection. Hvar Town is overflowing with all things contrasting - weathered fishing boats and multimillion-dollar yachts, budget backpackers and elite party-goers, small hostels and expensive resorts, pebble beaches and rocky cliffs, sea-level attractions and aerial views from the town's hilltop castle. A simultaneous natural sea of blue water, and man-made sea of orange rooftops. Far from clashing, however, the contrasting features of this town lend to its inherent charm.

At sea-level....

Above and beyond....

Bol, Island of Brac

A longer two hour trip from Hvar Town (quicker by speedboat), Bol is most well-known for Zlatni Rat beach, a popular pebble beach that jets out into the sea, while also offering a large, wooded forest area for picnics, games, and shade. Bol seems to be less all-things-contrasting, and a bit more simple. Arriving by boat to Bol's quiet harbour feels a bit like arriving in Cabo San Lucas - the pedestrianized streets are lined with vendors selling children's toys, while fisherman are busy unloading, cooking up, and selling their catch of the day. Some children pass the time dangling their feet in the sea, while others are operating small motor boats throughout the marina. The town is invigorated at night, just like in Hvar, as ferry schedules enable youthful island-hoppers to arrive in Bol during the early evening, dance the night away, and depart for other destinations at 6:30 am. To us, however, Bol was about the simple pleasures - after all, what can possibly compete with a fisherman hauling fresh squid off the boat in tubs, tossing it into a frying vat, sprinkling it with lemon and sea salt, and selling it for less than £4.00 for a heaping plate?

As far as rest, relaxation, and sunshine was concerned - mission accomplished.

-B&B

"Take rest; a field that has rested gives a bountiful crop." - Ovid